I am often asked how to remove common stains from shirts and having just gone through the process of bringing a few of my stained shirts back to life I thought I should share the knowledge.
By far the two most common stains men will experience on their shirts are perspiration/deodorant under the armpits and sweat stains on the collar.
TO REMOVE SWEAT AND DEODORANTS STAINS/ODOURS FROM SHIRTS:
1. Make a paste of 4 Tablespoons baking soda and 1/4 cup of warm water.
2. Turn your shirt inside out and rub the paste into the stain and allow to sit for a couple of hours.
3. Just before putting it in the washing machine, rejuvenate the paste by adding a teaspoon of white vinegar and scrubbing the stain with an old toothbrush
4. Proceed with the regular WARM wash cycle.
For more stubborn stains soak the shirts in a mixture of white vinegar and hot water (1:5) and leave overnight before washing in the morning.
TO REMOVE THE YELLOW RING AROUND THE COLLAR
1. Rub oily hair shampoo into the collar.
2. Scrub with an old toothbrush.
3. Wash on a warm cycle.
If this fails the same method as above can be used as this is also caused by perspiration.
OTHER STAIN REMOVAL
There are any number of ways to completely ruin your shirt with a stain. Rather than listing them all I thought this link might be easier: http://au.askmen.com/fashion/fashiontip_200/228_fashion_advice.html
Monday, July 19, 2010
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
The correct sleeve length for shirts
One of our biggest problems in converting people from ready made shirts to tailor made is our customers perception of where their sleeves should go down to. Because with ready made shirts you are rarely given the option of sleeve lengths it follows that the sleeves are not the right length.
For gents with long arms it is instantly apparent if the sleeves are too short however for men with shorter arms they get used to having sleeves that are clearly too long. When you shirt sleeves are unbuttoned the cuff should rest half way between the webbing between your thumb and forefinger and your wrist, so approximately 1.5"-2.0" below the wrist itself.
When you do up your button or cufflink, the shirt should sit on your wrist with a small amount of slack in the lower part of the sleeve. If your shirt sleeve is flairing at the cuff and potentially resembling a pirate shirt then your sleeve is too long. On occasions customers will complain that when they are holding their arms out in front of them that the sleeves are riding up their arm. My answer to that is that unless you are writing on a whiteboard all day or if your job involves robotic dancing then your cuffs are probably the correct length.
To compound this problem ready made suits are generally cut longer in the arm to accommodate a larger range of sizes. As a result of the suit sleeve being too long customers will compensate by making a sleeve extra long so that their cuff protrudes slightly at the bottom. This not only creates the pirate shirt effect but can also result in the shirt sleeves falling over the hand (particularly on French cuffed shirts). Whilst this solves the problem of showing cuffs and also keeps your hands warm at the same time it does look a little silly. Suit sleeves should be cut about quarter of an inch above the wrist.
To measure sleeves correctly:
* Your arm should rest at your side, there will be a small angle for the natural bend.
* Start with the tape measure on top of the arm seam where the shoulder meets the arm.
* Take the tape down your arm stopping at the elbow.
* Then take the tape measure across your arm to between your wrist and webbing between your thumb and index finger.
* Check the measurement by measuring the sleeve of the shirt you are wearing
If you have bought ready made shirts before with much longer sleeve lengths it is because they use half of the shoulder measurement as well however this measurement style is not popular with tailored shirts.
Having said all of this our customers comfort is our number one priority so if you feel your shirt sleeves are too short then we will adjust them on your next order.
www.bawdenbespoke.com
For gents with long arms it is instantly apparent if the sleeves are too short however for men with shorter arms they get used to having sleeves that are clearly too long. When you shirt sleeves are unbuttoned the cuff should rest half way between the webbing between your thumb and forefinger and your wrist, so approximately 1.5"-2.0" below the wrist itself.
When you do up your button or cufflink, the shirt should sit on your wrist with a small amount of slack in the lower part of the sleeve. If your shirt sleeve is flairing at the cuff and potentially resembling a pirate shirt then your sleeve is too long. On occasions customers will complain that when they are holding their arms out in front of them that the sleeves are riding up their arm. My answer to that is that unless you are writing on a whiteboard all day or if your job involves robotic dancing then your cuffs are probably the correct length.
To compound this problem ready made suits are generally cut longer in the arm to accommodate a larger range of sizes. As a result of the suit sleeve being too long customers will compensate by making a sleeve extra long so that their cuff protrudes slightly at the bottom. This not only creates the pirate shirt effect but can also result in the shirt sleeves falling over the hand (particularly on French cuffed shirts). Whilst this solves the problem of showing cuffs and also keeps your hands warm at the same time it does look a little silly. Suit sleeves should be cut about quarter of an inch above the wrist.
To measure sleeves correctly:
* Your arm should rest at your side, there will be a small angle for the natural bend.
* Start with the tape measure on top of the arm seam where the shoulder meets the arm.
* Take the tape down your arm stopping at the elbow.
* Then take the tape measure across your arm to between your wrist and webbing between your thumb and index finger.
* Check the measurement by measuring the sleeve of the shirt you are wearing
If you have bought ready made shirts before with much longer sleeve lengths it is because they use half of the shoulder measurement as well however this measurement style is not popular with tailored shirts.
Having said all of this our customers comfort is our number one priority so if you feel your shirt sleeves are too short then we will adjust them on your next order.
www.bawdenbespoke.com
Monday, April 6, 2009
Men's Style Capital of Australia?
I have just returned from a fitting trip to Melbourne and I have been pondering the question: Are Melbourne men really the best dressed? At the risk of being lambasted I would have to say that all the Cities in Australia are populated by men who buy shirts on price rather than on fit and Melbourne is no exception.
Melbourne men seem to take a little more pride in their appearance and certainly visit the hairdresser more than their counterparts in the other cities but there is no real difference in the shirts that they wear. From my observations, and I saw plenty of shirtsleeves in Melbourne, they are just as wont to wear ill fitting shirts as anyone else. What a shame when a tailor made shirt often costs less than the one on their back.
I will say one that the one thing that Melbourne men do better than any other city is shoes. They have really got it right there. I don't know whether there are just better shoe store there or if they see good shoes as a very essential component of dressing well (which it undoubtably is) but they are leaps and bounds ahead of their neighbours.
Melbourne men seem to take a little more pride in their appearance and certainly visit the hairdresser more than their counterparts in the other cities but there is no real difference in the shirts that they wear. From my observations, and I saw plenty of shirtsleeves in Melbourne, they are just as wont to wear ill fitting shirts as anyone else. What a shame when a tailor made shirt often costs less than the one on their back.
I will say one that the one thing that Melbourne men do better than any other city is shoes. They have really got it right there. I don't know whether there are just better shoe store there or if they see good shoes as a very essential component of dressing well (which it undoubtably is) but they are leaps and bounds ahead of their neighbours.
Wednesday, February 4, 2009
Matching Ties with Shirts
There are a few simple rules to matching shirts and ties which will help you to get a combination that works. These are not hard and fast but they will give you a rough idea.
1. Busy shirt = Plain tie; Plain shirt = Busier tie. For instance, if your shirt is striped then try to tone down the effect with a plain or slightly patterned tie. If you have a plain shirt, dress it up with a tie with stripes or louder patterns.
2. Bear in mind the suit you are wearing as well. If you have a pin striped suit try to avoid striped shirts.
3. Try to pick out a colour in your shirt which matches with a colour on your tie.
4. Always wear a darker tie than your shirt, you are trying to create a contrast between shirt and tie. Wearing a dark shirt and light tie rarely works and is for the experts only.
5. Always wear a tie that is long enough for you. The basic rule is to have the point of your tie reach the upper side of your belt.
6. No matter which knot you use try to ensure that you get a dimple in the front of the tie. It is simply more elegant.
7. Yes you can wear a striped tie with a checked shirt but ensure that it is a subtle check and you are not hurting peoples eyes with the panorama you create.
8. Wear the appropriate knot for the collar you have. For instance a spread collar demands a thicker knot like a Windsor and a classic collar
My tip for buying ties: keep it simple, plainer ties or ties with sparsely spaced patterns will match with many more shirts and suits than striped or busy patterned ties.
Happy matching.
Marcus
www.bawdenbespoke.com
1. Busy shirt = Plain tie; Plain shirt = Busier tie. For instance, if your shirt is striped then try to tone down the effect with a plain or slightly patterned tie. If you have a plain shirt, dress it up with a tie with stripes or louder patterns.
2. Bear in mind the suit you are wearing as well. If you have a pin striped suit try to avoid striped shirts.
3. Try to pick out a colour in your shirt which matches with a colour on your tie.
4. Always wear a darker tie than your shirt, you are trying to create a contrast between shirt and tie. Wearing a dark shirt and light tie rarely works and is for the experts only.
5. Always wear a tie that is long enough for you. The basic rule is to have the point of your tie reach the upper side of your belt.
6. No matter which knot you use try to ensure that you get a dimple in the front of the tie. It is simply more elegant.
7. Yes you can wear a striped tie with a checked shirt but ensure that it is a subtle check and you are not hurting peoples eyes with the panorama you create.
8. Wear the appropriate knot for the collar you have. For instance a spread collar demands a thicker knot like a Windsor and a classic collar
My tip for buying ties: keep it simple, plainer ties or ties with sparsely spaced patterns will match with many more shirts and suits than striped or busy patterned ties.
Happy matching.
Marcus
www.bawdenbespoke.com
Thursday, December 11, 2008
How to Make the Perfect Tailored Shirt
There are shirts and then there are Bawden Bespoke Tailored Shirts.
Why are Bawden Bespoke so much better than our competitors:
1. FITTING
We start by getting your measurements right. Each we order we receive is scrutinized twice to ensure that the measurements you have provided us are in proportion. We will contact you if things seem a little out and we work with you to get the perfect measurement. Our fitting guide is easy to use and you can either do it at home or the office or take a printed copy to a professional tailor.
2. FABRICS
We source our fabrics on quality, not price. We point blank refuse to use synthetic materials as although they require less care, they are quite simply awful to wear. There is a huge difference in the quality of cottons as those if you who have bought shirts from our competitors would no doubt be aware. The vast majority of our fabrics are Italian 2 ply cotton.
3. CUTTING & PATTERN MAKING
Much of the skill in making the perfect shirt is cutting the pattern. We create a pattern for all our customers and store it in our workshop. Our fabric cutters have a minimum of 4 years experience, it is an artform to see them perform.
4. SEWING & CONSTRUCTION
The true test of the quality of workmanship on a shirt is to turn it inside out and look at the stitching. Tailored Dress shirts MUST use French double seams not interlocked stitching. The seams should be evenly spaced. Check particularly the cuff gusset (the end of the split in the sleeve) which is out-of-site-out-of mind for most tailors. The problem is that from time to time we like to roll our sleeves up and unfinished gussets look dreadful. Also poor quality seams will come apart and you will be left with a threadbare garment.
5. YARNS, NEEDLES & LINING
To make a garment that stands the test of time it is essential to use strong quality yarns. We use Coates yarns on all our shirts because of their strength and appearance. Poor quality needles can do a great deal to damage your shirt before it is ever worn - we use Groz Beckert needles which minimise the trauma on the fabric. The fusing material on the cuff and collar is vitally important if you don't want lumpy or bubbled collars. Many shirtmakers simply glue an interlining on which after a few washes starts to come away creating a bubble effect.
6. MACHINERY
Whilst we commend most tailors for doing a better job of making a shirt to fit you than an off-the-rack fits all shirtmaker, the problem often is that they simply do not have the equipment to make a shirt that lasts. We use 10 seperate state of the art specialized machines and machine operators to make our shirts.
7. PUCKER-FREE SEAMS
Bawden Bespoke is one of the few made-to-measure shirt companies that fuses our shirt seams to create wrinkle-free seams. Puckering is the small ridges that appear whenever a farbic is doubled over. You will notice it particularly on your arm seams but also on the side seams, placket, sleeve seams and cuff gusset. Once you know it is there it will drive you to distraction and until now it has been standard on all business shirts.(please note this finishing is only available on your second order)
8. SERVICE
We have the ambition to have you as our customer for as long as you are wearing shirts and we will bend over backwards to ensure that you will never leave us. We are continually adding new fabrics and updating our machinery. We welcome any and all feedback.
We urge you to try Bawden Bespoke and guarantee you will not be disappointed in our quality. Visit www.bawdenbespoke.com
Why are Bawden Bespoke so much better than our competitors:
1. FITTING
We start by getting your measurements right. Each we order we receive is scrutinized twice to ensure that the measurements you have provided us are in proportion. We will contact you if things seem a little out and we work with you to get the perfect measurement. Our fitting guide is easy to use and you can either do it at home or the office or take a printed copy to a professional tailor.
2. FABRICS
We source our fabrics on quality, not price. We point blank refuse to use synthetic materials as although they require less care, they are quite simply awful to wear. There is a huge difference in the quality of cottons as those if you who have bought shirts from our competitors would no doubt be aware. The vast majority of our fabrics are Italian 2 ply cotton.
3. CUTTING & PATTERN MAKING
Much of the skill in making the perfect shirt is cutting the pattern. We create a pattern for all our customers and store it in our workshop. Our fabric cutters have a minimum of 4 years experience, it is an artform to see them perform.
4. SEWING & CONSTRUCTION
The true test of the quality of workmanship on a shirt is to turn it inside out and look at the stitching. Tailored Dress shirts MUST use French double seams not interlocked stitching. The seams should be evenly spaced. Check particularly the cuff gusset (the end of the split in the sleeve) which is out-of-site-out-of mind for most tailors. The problem is that from time to time we like to roll our sleeves up and unfinished gussets look dreadful. Also poor quality seams will come apart and you will be left with a threadbare garment.
5. YARNS, NEEDLES & LINING
To make a garment that stands the test of time it is essential to use strong quality yarns. We use Coates yarns on all our shirts because of their strength and appearance. Poor quality needles can do a great deal to damage your shirt before it is ever worn - we use Groz Beckert needles which minimise the trauma on the fabric. The fusing material on the cuff and collar is vitally important if you don't want lumpy or bubbled collars. Many shirtmakers simply glue an interlining on which after a few washes starts to come away creating a bubble effect.
6. MACHINERY
Whilst we commend most tailors for doing a better job of making a shirt to fit you than an off-the-rack fits all shirtmaker, the problem often is that they simply do not have the equipment to make a shirt that lasts. We use 10 seperate state of the art specialized machines and machine operators to make our shirts.
7. PUCKER-FREE SEAMS
Bawden Bespoke is one of the few made-to-measure shirt companies that fuses our shirt seams to create wrinkle-free seams. Puckering is the small ridges that appear whenever a farbic is doubled over. You will notice it particularly on your arm seams but also on the side seams, placket, sleeve seams and cuff gusset. Once you know it is there it will drive you to distraction and until now it has been standard on all business shirts.(please note this finishing is only available on your second order)
8. SERVICE
We have the ambition to have you as our customer for as long as you are wearing shirts and we will bend over backwards to ensure that you will never leave us. We are continually adding new fabrics and updating our machinery. We welcome any and all feedback.
We urge you to try Bawden Bespoke and guarantee you will not be disappointed in our quality. Visit www.bawdenbespoke.com
Thursday, December 4, 2008
Casual Observations on Business Shirts
It never ceases to amaze me that people pay ludicrous sums of money for ready made shirts.
I have spent the last month roaming the streets of Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane looking for someone passing by who has a shirt which even looks close to fitting them. Alas not a great deal of luck I am afraid. I have seen some lovely fabrics and the men wearing them sporting a false sense of pride in their immaculate deportment. I am especially amazed at the expense they go to with their suits only to be poorly let down by the fit of their shirts.
Wearing ready made shirts is akin to fitting a square peg in a round hole. I have met very few men who can honestly say that their shirt is a perfect fit - there is always some form of sacrifice. The all time classic is wearing a shirt which 2 sizes too small in the collar so that they can wear something that doesn't resemble a spinnaker.
We are all individuals, and with that basic human condition comes the rule that we are all different. For instance, I could line up myself and 9 other customers who have the same collar size as me and our heights would range between 5'4" up to and beyond me at 6'7". The same is true of our sleeves, our waists, our chests, in fact every dimension that we use to create a shirt.
I have had an endless trail of people coming into the fitting rooms and telling me their tales of woe about buying an expensive shirt and then spending another $40 odd retailoring it to size. There is some kind of strange logic there I am sure.
Gentlemen, do yourselves a favour and get thee to a tailor.
It never ceases to amaze me that people pay ludicrous sums of money for ready made shirts.
I have spent the last month roaming the streets of Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane looking for someone passing by who has a shirt which even looks close to fitting them. Alas not a great deal of luck I am afraid. I have seen some lovely fabrics and the men wearing them sporting a false sense of pride in their immaculate deportment. I am especially amazed at the expense they go to with their suits only to be poorly let down by the fit of their shirts.
Wearing ready made shirts is akin to fitting a square peg in a round hole. I have met very few men who can honestly say that their shirt is a perfect fit - there is always some form of sacrifice. The all time classic is wearing a shirt which 2 sizes too small in the collar so that they can wear something that doesn't resemble a spinnaker.
We are all individuals, and with that basic human condition comes the rule that we are all different. For instance, I could line up myself and 9 other customers who have the same collar size as me and our heights would range between 5'4" up to and beyond me at 6'7". The same is true of our sleeves, our waists, our chests, in fact every dimension that we use to create a shirt.
I have had an endless trail of people coming into the fitting rooms and telling me their tales of woe about buying an expensive shirt and then spending another $40 odd retailoring it to size. There is some kind of strange logic there I am sure.
Gentlemen, do yourselves a favour and get thee to a tailor.
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